肌膚發亮的秘密第二步—談保濕

2,156 Comments / 肌膚問題及保養, 醫生專欄 / By

保濕這話題要談清楚，挺難的，議題也很大，所以龜縮了一段時間，一直逃避要動筆，不過冬天就是來了，冬季不談保濕還能談什麼，就請大家有耐心慢慢看，會讓你有收穫的！

首先，之前有談過肌膚要有亮度光澤，保濕品要能吸收發揮效用，第一步是做好角質調理，選用一瓶適合自己膚質的去角質產品，讓老廢角質能順利剝落代謝，事情就成功一半，另一半就靠適當的保濕來完成。保濕成分無所不在，其實從化妝水、精華液、乳液、乳霜、精華油，甚至強調各種功能例如美白、抗老、抗皺、緊實、消水腫等等為訴求的產品，都會添加有保濕的成份，而保濕要適當，過與不及對肌膚來講都是負擔。

正常健康的皮膚，有幾個要點：

• 皮膚基底層細胞能正常持續的製造健康的角質細胞，源源不絕的替補外層死亡剝落的角質層。
• 厚薄適當且排列平順的角質層，含水量在10-30%左右。
• 完整健康的細胞間質，細胞間質是類似皮膚結構的物質，又有另一名稱叫做皮脂膜。我們可以把它想像成混凝土，它們負責把磚塊（皮膚細胞）緊緊抓在一起，形成一道保護膜，來防止水份從皮膚流失。

細胞間質的構成，有胺基酸、神經醯胺、玻尿酸、膽固醇、脂肪酸、三酸甘油脂、磷脂質、尿素、甘油、黏多醣、葡聚糖等等。皮膚乾燥與否，補水不是最重要的，即使空氣濕度夠、水喝得夠多、勤補水，細胞間質不完整，你的皮膚再怎麼補水，也留不住這些水分，因此保濕品的選擇首要功用在於維護細胞間質的完整性。然而，細胞間質是很脆弱的，太多因素可以影響到細胞間質的完整性，這些傷害如滴水穿石，平常不易察覺，但日積月累下來，對於維護肌膚的保濕度來說傷害很大。

哪些因素可能影響細胞間質（皮脂膜）的健康？主要有以下幾點，請大家要熟記，並且避免：

• 環境因素（陽光、污染、乾燥氣候、空調）
• 賀爾蒙（內分泌失調、更年期）
• 身體健康狀況
• 不適當的保養品（洗面皂、含有酒精或其他刺激成分，例如樟腦、柑橘、尤加利、香料、薄荷、肉桂酸硫酸鈉）
• 不當的保養行為（過度去角質、過度清潔、過冰或過熱的水、熱氣蒸臉）

避開了上面所述的種種對肌膚具有傷害的行為或成分後，要怎樣挑選適合自己的保濕品呢？一個完美的保濕品，必須含有可以修復細胞間質的成份、含有抗氧化物來減少環境自由基傷害、含有可以促進皮膚製造健康細胞的細胞溝通物質。三者都完備，並且不含有對皮膚刺激的成分，就是一個優秀的保濕產品，再來我們就必須根據自己肌膚出油的狀態，來選擇適合的保濕劑型。以下再次總結保濕品挑選通則：
1. 不能含有有害成分，包括芳香性植物油脂、合成香料、薄荷、柑橘、酒精、樟腦、肉桂酸硫酸鈉、高過敏防腐劑）
2. 包含抗氧化物、抗刺激物質、細胞溝通因子、皮膚修護成分（皮膚結構相同物質）
3. 合適劑型，油性跟混合肌使用化妝水、凝膠、精華液劑型; 中性或中偏乾使用乳液劑型; 乾性肌用滋潤的乳液或乳霜劑型

講了這麼多，以下提供一個比較完整的保養流程建議：

– 使用防曬
防曬做好，是健康美膚的根本，白天即使是陰天，也請做好防曬。

-避免使用肥皂，請使用溫和水性清潔劑
清潔是為了除去髒污，避免毛囊阻塞，但請勿使用過強清潔劑，以免傷害皮脂膜，溫和水性清潔劑是最好的選擇，洗完不澀不繃為原則。正確洗臉文章請點此

-使用去角質產品
正常角質代謝也是健康美肌的要件，挑選適合自己的酸類產品，對保養絕對是加分又加分。去角質文章請點此

優秀的保濕產品

選擇含有抗氧化劑、抗刺激物質、皮膚結構相似物質。如果皮膚很乾，選用的保濕品應含有脂肪例如植物油、卵磷脂、膽固醇、甘油和甘油酯。盡量別選用廣口瓶包裝的產品，以免這些抗氧化成份易變質。

– 分區調理，每個部位肌膚乾燥、出油程度不一，勤勞一點請勿一視同仁
一般來說可依肌膚狀況，準備2-3種劑型的保濕品，隨時因應肌膚的變化來疊擦不同滋潤度的保濕品。

– 絕不使用含有刺激或乾燥成分產品
– 在濕度過低的地區，請使用空氣增濕器

市場上保濕品琳琅滿目，真的很難挑選，以下介紹一些不錯的保濕品，大致上都有符合我所說的優秀保濕品的挑選通則：

雅詩蘭黛特潤修護60天極效安瓶（Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair)

一顆顆小膠囊包裝的精華油產品，每次使用一顆，即拆即用，可以讓產品成分保持在最好的狀態，很適合乾肌與極乾肌，中性肌或混合肌就須依當日膚況、局部乾燥情形來分配使用部位跟頻率。這個精華油產品完全不含有刺激性的芳香性油脂，還富含多種可以修復細胞間質的保濕成分，以及具有抗氧化力的植物油組成，還添加沒藥醇（bisabolol)來鎮定消炎。算是一款面面俱到，很優秀的保濕品，結合皮脂膜修復、抗氧化、抗刺激的功用，單用或是加進其他精華液或乳液，都是很棒的使用方法。

這一款平常在台灣，我只會在我的兩頰使用，避開Ｔ字部位，因為我的Ｔ字比較會長粉刺。我會在化妝水跟角質調理液後，將一顆囊量滴在精華液產品中使用。出國尤其是到很乾燥的地方，例如歐洲，帶這個超級好用的。

倩碧更新亮采修護油（Clinique Turnaround Revitalizing Treatment Oil)

這一款修護油，是我在Beauty每年度美妝大賞當評審時碰到的產品，除了同樣也含有多種可以修護細胞間質的天然保濕因子外，多種抗氧化的植物油組合，排除刺激性的芳香性精油，最重要最重要是這一款修護油還添加了水楊酸，在快速修護細胞間質的同時，還可以幫助老廢角質代謝，不過含量不算高，所以要視個人膚況再酌量觀察是否要在這款精華油前，再多一道角質調理產品，是一款比較適合粉刺肌的修護油。

不過瓶身比較透明，建議儲放在暗光處，避免抗氧化成份受到影響。

倩碧智慧科研修護精粹油（Clinique Smart Treatment Oil)

也是倩碧旗下另一款精華油，不含香料，結合多種有助潤澤修護肌膚的植物油、抗氧化物、植物萃取的抗刺激性物質，在多種修護油產品中，這款稍稍清爽一些，適合中性肌、乾肌，但油肌跟痘痘肌使用就要小心，對於極乾肌可能還是有點不足，後續需要再多一道滋潤的乳霜。不過這款精萃油，抗氧化力很高，對於敏感易紅肌來說，不失為一款保濕力足，同時又可舒緩抗敏的好產品。

不過這一款就更嚴格要求要保存在暗光環境，避免日光直接照射唷！

寶拉珍選玻尿酸彈潤保濕精萃（Paula’s choice RESIST Hyaluronic Acid Booster)

這是一款高濃度的玻尿酸精萃，富含玻尿酸跟玻尿酸鈉，並且也含有豐富的神經醯胺跟磷脂質，都是我們皮膚細胞間質的重要組成，我平時習慣將2-3滴家在舒敏的精華液中，後續再疊擦上其他款精華液或乳液，在不乾的季節，這樣的保濕度就已經很足夠了。

這一款玻尿酸精萃，不含香料，快速吸收的膠狀質地，適合各種膚質，即使是油肌跟敏感肌。

法國貝德瑪舒妍AR修護乳霜（Bioderma Sensibio AR)

乳霜狀基質，適合乾肌跟極乾肌，其中這款最大的亮點在於，大量添加許多已經被證實的抗氧化跟抗刺激物質，富含能抗發炎的脂肪酸、雷公根、甘草酸、大豆、尿素囊、綠茶萃取物等等，礦物油的基底對於受損跟及敏感肌的修復是很有幫助的。

冬天的到來，低溫、寒流、冷風，常使酒糟肌備受考驗，經常紅通通反覆發炎又乾燥，如果你也是這類肌膚，這款乳霜值得你使用，不過這款比較厚重一些，在白天妝前使用時可能量要輕薄一些，避免妝很難上。

倩碧更新亮采活膚水（Clinique Turnaround Revitalizing Lotion)

介於化妝水跟精華液的劑型，適合各類膚質，尤其是油肌跟混合肌的保濕，這一款我習慣拿來當化妝水使用，在保養的第一步驟，用化妝棉沾濕擦上全臉，不含酒精、不含香料，且富含乙烯葡萄糖聚胺、玻尿酸、酵母萃取液、鎮定消炎的積雪草、細胞溝通因子磷酸腺苷、及多種抗氧化物質，是款表現突出的保濕品。

MAC柔礦迷光緊緻精華乳（MAC Mineralize Timecheck Lotion)

平常會上妝的女孩兒，這款妝前乳值得推薦給妳，清爽乳液質地適合中性及中性偏乾肌使用。富含玻尿酸鈉、兼具抗氧化跟保濕功能的海藻萃取物，也含有許多修護細胞間質的成份，在妝前使用的確有讓毛孔跟細紋隱形的效果，是款效用不錯的保濕妝前乳。但注意是肉豆蔻酸脂含量稍高一些，粉刺肌使用要仔細觀察粉刺是否有變多的狀況，而且此款含有少量香料，敏感肌的人要小心使用。

每個人天生都是獨特的，每個療程在不同人身上會有不同效果。

我們希望能針對你的狀況，給予你專屬的最佳方案建議。

想要進一步瞭解，你可透過諮詢專線與我們聯繫：02-2740 2777

你也可點擊此處與顧問諮詢師直接詢

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2,156 thoughts on “肌膚發亮的秘密第二步—談保濕”

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  2142. Scottmed

    Understanding COSC Certification and Its Importance in Watchmaking
    COSC Validation and its Demanding Criteria
    Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres, or the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Agency, is the official Swiss testing agency that verifies the precision and accuracy of wristwatches. COSC accreditation is a symbol of quality craftsmanship and reliability in chronometry. Not all timepiece brands seek COSC certification, such as Hublot, which instead follows to its proprietary demanding criteria with movements like the UNICO calibre, attaining comparable precision.

    The Art of Exact Timekeeping
    The core mechanism of a mechanized watch involves the mainspring, which supplies power as it loosens. This system, however, can be prone to external elements that may impact its accuracy. COSC-certified mechanisms undergo rigorous testing—over 15 days in various circumstances (five positions, three temperatures)—to ensure their resilience and reliability. The tests assess:

    Average daily rate precision between -4 and +6 secs.
    Mean variation, highest variation rates, and effects of temperature variations.
    Why COSC Accreditation Is Important
    For timepiece enthusiasts and connoisseurs, a COSC-certified watch isn’t just a item of tech but a testament to lasting excellence and precision. It represents a watch that:

    Offers exceptional reliability and precision.
    Provides confidence of superiority across the entire construction of the timepiece.
    Is apt to hold its worth more effectively, making it a wise investment.
    Popular Chronometer Brands
    Several well-known manufacturers prioritize COSC certification for their watches, including Rolex, Omega, Breitling, and Longines, among others. Longines, for instance, provides collections like the Archive and Soul, which showcase COSC-validated mechanisms equipped with cutting-edge substances like silicone balance springs to boost durability and performance.

    Historic Background and the Development of Chronometers
    The concept of the chronometer originates back to the requirement for accurate chronometry for navigational at sea, highlighted by John Harrison’s work in the eighteenth century. Since the official establishment of Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres in 1973, the validation has become a standard for evaluating the precision of high-end timepieces, sustaining a tradition of excellence in watchmaking.

    Conclusion
    Owning a COSC-accredited timepiece is more than an aesthetic selection; it’s a commitment to quality and precision. For those valuing accuracy above all, the COSC validation provides tranquility of thoughts, ensuring that each certified timepiece will operate dependably under various circumstances. Whether for individual contentment or as an investment decision, COSC-accredited watches distinguish themselves in the world of horology, maintaining on a legacy of careful chronometry.

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