空氣污染的高峰季來了,你為你的肌膚做好準備了嗎?

根據行政院環保署的統計,台灣每年的10月到隔年3月是空氣污染最嚴重的時刻,從中國順風飄來的霾霧、還有本島源於汽機車廢氣、工廠燃煙、二手菸、室內油煙、揚塵、粉塵、重工業煤油燃燒廢氣、生物性污染物,例如黴菌、細菌、孢子、動物皮屑、塵鏋等等。這許許多多複雜的來源,也造就構成複雜的空氣污染的內含物,我們可以將空氣污染的組成,簡單分為氣狀污染物、顆粒狀的污染物。對生物體危害最大的莫過於可以被呼吸道吸入、可以經皮膚吸收、經黏膜吸收的氣狀污染物跟PM2.5。

這些空氣污染物質,接觸到人體的呼吸道、眼睛、鼻腔黏膜、皮膚後,不僅僅在這些人體外圍抵禦防線造成氣喘、鼻子過敏、眼睛紅癢、皮膚敏感等症狀,還會進一步吸收至人體血液循環中,造成心血管、中樞神經系統、甚至癌症等疾病。

當這些空氣污染物接觸到皮膚,第一步會導致皮脂過氧化,造成肌膚的氧化壓力,再來,會進一步破壞肌膚的皮脂膜,弱化肌膚的表面屏障能力,最後導致細胞發炎。身為皮膚科醫師,多年的門診看診經驗,每當環保署發出的空污指數逼近紫爆的日子,門診因為皮膚敏感、濕疹、異位性皮膚炎跟蕁麻疹的患者就會居高不下,這些是立即受空氣污染而導致的皮膚急性問題,但長久下來還會導致皮膚老化、細紋、斑點的生成等慢性問題。

以下就空氣污染的高峰季容易誘發的肌膚問題,做一詳細的介紹:

敏感性肌膚

過去總認為多數的敏感性肌膚,是因為不當的保養品使用、雷射過度施打、或季節轉換有關,孰不知空氣污染也悄悄成為肌膚的隱形殺手,透過破壞皮膚的皮脂膜,影響了表皮屏障的完整性,更加速各種有害物質,例如保養品中的過敏刺激原、紫外線等的穿透,也影響了角質層的保水度,增加經皮的水分流失。肌膚因而容易乾癢、泛紅、刺痛、灼熱、脫屑等等。

皮膚濕疹

濕疹正確來說是種皮膚表皮發炎疾病,可以是敏感性肌膚照顧不當的下一階段病徵,也可以是來自高濃度的空氣污染物直接的刺激導致,空汙當中的揮發性氣體、臭氧、硫氫化物、重金屬及生物性的漂浮黴菌、孢子、塵鏋等,都可以刺激皮膚導致濕疹問題。

異位性皮膚炎

異位性皮膚炎的患者,其肌膚表皮的保護力本身就有缺失,再經由空汙物質的刺激,更加削弱表皮的屏障能力,經皮水分散失增加,皮膚癢感加劇。此外,研究也顯示,經皮吸收、經呼吸道吸收的空氣污染物,會導致皮膚中的免疫細胞數量大增、發炎反應增強,進一步又發惡化異位性皮膚炎。

蕁痲疹

根據統計,環境中懸浮微粒的濃度跟門診中蕁痲疹就診人數的增加,呈現線性相關。這跟我長年的門診看診觀察也是符合的。或許跟空氣污染物進入人體內,導致的免疫系統失衡有關。

從上述可知,空氣污染對肌膚的危害,多數是從破壞肌膚表皮屏障而起,因此在養膚護膚上,有下列幾點建議:

1.深度溫和清潔

針對可能已受損的皮脂膜,切記勿使用皂鹼多、清潔力強的產品,洗後會乾、澀、繃,這樣的潔面產品就該屏除在你的使用清單以外。建議油性、中乾性膚質,可以使用保濕型卸妝水搭配添加有舒緩成分的水性潔面產品; 極乾肌可以使用卸妝霜搭配潔面霜使用,清除附著於肌膚上的彩妝跟空氣懸浮微粒之餘,還能盡力呵護肌膚的皮脂膜。

2.強化肌膚屏障

簡言之,就是要挑選優質的保濕產品。一個優質的保濕品,第一,富含肌膚相同結構例如:神經醯胺、膽固醇、卵磷脂、玻尿酸鈉、甘油、尿素、葡萄胺聚糖等; 第二,含有抗刺激物質,例如尿囊素、蘆薈、甘草酸、洋甘菊等; 第三,含有抗氧化物質,維他命A、C、E、葡聚糖、硫鋅酸、Q10、蝦紅素等等。

3.防曬隔離

要隔離空氣污染物質,防曬品的選擇盡量是以氧化鋅跟二氧化鈦為主成分的物理性防曬為主,可以覆蓋在皮膚表面形成屏障,也降低因為使用化學性防曬導致的過敏或泛紅。


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